Quang Tri

Another highlight of February was the visit of a good friend from the US. A retired Marine colonel (and Vietnam veteran), he now frequently visits Asia as part of his work. Our family is always delighted to see him! On this brief visit, we took a couple days to visit some of the places he knew as a soldier. One of those places was Quang Tri. As the northern most province controlled by the Republic of Vietnam (the South Vietnamese) during the Vietnam war, Quang Tri was the location of brutal battles as both sides fought for control.

We traveled northwest of Danang to Quang Tri Province. We spent a little time in Hue (pronounced “whay”), where emperors ruled for centuries. The palace is now a tourist site, offering elephant rides, gardens, and ornate gold covered thrones. It is reminiscent of The Forbidden City in China: expansive grounds with many buildings. Some housed the emperor’s wives. Linh told me how favored wives were in danger for their lives, especially if they became pregnant. If the child was a boy, there was added jeopardy to both their lives. Women taken to be the wife of the emperor never again left the grounds. I could not help but think of women of poor means whose selection to that elite group meant trading the freedom from poverty to having no freedom at all. What a choice.

The battle site of Quang Tri is now also a tourist area. There is a small museum, largely intact bunkers, and a US helicopter and plane. I tried to imagine how it might have been for the brave men stationed there. I thought of my own brother, a Vietnam vet (now deceased). Wish I could ask him if he had been there.

A few people wandered the grounds, selling dog tags from American and South Vietnamese soldiers. I held them in my hand, but they held my heart. Names after name, home states, religious beliefs, blood types…I was keenly aware that each of the cold metal rectangles stood for a living, breathing human being. Part of me wanted to buy all the dog tags, and part of me wanted to make them stop selling them. It seemed profane to me, to sell the dog tags in the face of the sacrifices made on that hill.

Any way, if you are veteran—or if you love someone who is, I just wanted to say thank you. I appreciate your service. I wish my own brother were living so I could tell him.

With Good Friday nearly here, I am thinking about another sacrifice willingly made. I am thankful for that one, too. May we all live lives worthy of what has been given to us and for us.

Grace and peace,
Cindy

Shopping Spree

I have been promising the girls (and most specifically, Joy) to go shopping for Easter dresses. Today was the day. Well, at least tonight was the night. Shopping here poses many possibilities. We can go to the market and bargain for each and every item we buy (which I find exhausting). We can go to Big C, gather an entourage of on-lookers who follow us throughout the store, right through the check-out. We can look for a small shop and risk higher prices. Or, we can go to our friend, who sells children's clothing out of her business office.

Tonight we visited my friend. She buys clothing at outlet centers in Saigon, most likely where the clothing is made. There are many namebrands: Gymboree, Gap, Old Navy, Children's Place--even some Ralph Lauren. Other brands are Australian or British. We arrived about 6:15pm, after the office was closed. About 15 plastic bags of various sizes were in the middle of the floor, and we were invited to plunge in. Every bag was packed full of new clothing--from fancy dresses to sundresses; pants; shorts; tops; even some hats, house shoes, and underclothes.
The girls loved it. They used an empty office as a changing room and had a grand time trying on different styles.

Of course, at the end of the shopping session, we had a big job folding and returning the clothing to the bags. We all came home happy. The girls have a total of 4 dresses, 2 skirts, 3 pairs of capris, 6 tops and a cropped denim jacket. Dad and Mom are happy, too. All 16 pieces came to a grand total of about $55.

Life is full of exchanges. We shop from bags in an office instead of at a mall. But the tag on Faith's Gymboree pants says they will cost about $30 in the US. I paid about $3. There are limited sizes and no "restocking." Still, to find the right dress in the right size brings some big smiles. All in all, a very good night.

Grace and peace,
Cindy

Back in the Swing

Wow! After a long absence I hope I am back for the "long run"! Computer/server problems have prevented me from accessing the blog...very frustrating. But, thanks to Enoch, all is well once again!

Now for catching up...

February was eventful. The lunar new year holiday, Tet, was February 14. That meant that the city effectively began shutting down on February 7, and by the 12th, schools and businesses were on holiday. Tet is beautiful...flowers everywhere, colorful lights up and down all the streets at night, lots of cleaning and sprucing up with painting, etc. Looking at a very full schedule over the next weeks, we took a few days off for vacation at Tet, spending a few days in Hoi An, a quaint tourist hot spot about 45 minutes from home.

The weather was spectacular. The girls went swimming three times a day, and enjoyed riding bikes and a trip on jet skis. They loved it! Jillian rode with her Dad, Anna Mei and Elizabeth each rode with an employee from the rental place. Anna Mei's "guide" let her drive. He was Vietnamese, but got plenty of practice on one English word during his outing with Anna Mei: "Slow! Slow! Slow!"

For the Vietnamese, Tet is also a time of focus on family. It is the time of year when everyone travels home and there are frequent visitors. Children receive small red envelopes with gifts of money. Everyone is expected to have two new outfits. "New" is the operative word for everything, which makes the time leading up to Tet a time to be especially watchful against theft. One teenager we know had his own new jeans stolen from his clothes line at home while they were hanging out to dry!

Incense is everywhere, altars for ancestors are heavily decorated and supplied with food, money, and other valuables. It is not uncommon for people to build small fires on the side walks or roadside to burn items that are then "transported" to those already in the afterlife. Bicycles, clothing, furniture, even money--anything may be burned that a person thinks his departed loved ones may need.

For us, though, February's greatest event was not Tet. It was the opening of Promise House! Seven children arrived on February 23. Since then, the number has doubled, with more children expected over the next few months. Eventually, Promise House will be home to thirty children. The children come from tragic backgrounds of poverty, hardship, neglect, grief, and hunger. What a wonderful blessing to know they are now eating well, attending school and experiencing the nurturing love of dedicated caregivers.

You will be seeing more of these precious children on the blog!

Of course, when good things are happening, the enemy of our souls seems to get into gear as well. There have been so many challenges, mostly cultural and political. Daily life here sometimes seems to be similar to waltzing on a tightrope, without a net. Many have felt changes here. Some are having to leave, others are dealing with close scrutiny, many questions, investigations.

In the end, we entrust our lives and activities to hands stronger than our own, a mind abler than we can perceive, a heart of limitless compassion. And we find joy.

Grace and peace,

Cindy